how to replace front struts on saab 9-3

Remove the 18mm nuts from steering knuckle bolts. While keeping the nuts on at the very end of the bolts to protect the threads you can carefully hammer out the bolts on the other side and remove them: Steering knuckle bolts. Carefully rock the steering knuckle off the strut and move the strut a . Jul 27,  · The following video demonstrates how to correctly install a Monroe shock absorber strut on a Saab danhaigh.com Note: This video is for guidance only and.

Several months ago I replaced the front struts on a Saab Arc. I should have replaced the strut mounts and bearings while replacing the struts so now I've got to remove and disassemble both struts all over again.

If something breaks there could be a projectile that can injure you! Wear safety gear like goggles, gloves and tough clothes covering your limbs as an added measure. Engage the emergency hand brake, safely jack up one of the front wheels and use a jack stand to secure the lift:. Disconnect the sway bar link from the strut using an 18mm socket and a wrench to counter-hold the shaft.

Raise the car and position the jack stand again if you did this in the what career is best for you quiz step, then remove the nuts connecting the strut to the what is 40 times 6 knuckle ot an 18mm socket. When removing the last bolt use one how to split mkv files for fat32 to hold the strut so that it can be lowered with control.

Carefully compress the spring with an impact wrench and alternate sides 9-33 you go for even compression:. Tighten the upper shaft nut. While lifting the strut with one hand, install the 3 bolts at the top. Torque those bolts to 14 ft-lbs. You may want to hammer the bolts back in a bit to keep them from spinning while tightening the nuts. Repeat the above steps for the other side. Shop Saab Strut Mount Front. Gerry lives in Cincinnati, OH where he works as a data analyst by day and enjoys working on cars in his free time.

Start by replacing one side first: Engage the emergency hand brake, safely jack up one of the front wheels and use a jack stand to secure the lift: Remove the wheel using a 17mm deep socket and an impact wrench Disconnect the sway bar link from the strut using an 18mm socket and a wrench to counter-hold the shaft.

Installation is essentially the reverse of removal. Install the new bearing: Install the new strut mount: Install the upper shaft nut: Tighten the upper shaft nut. Remove the spring compressor tool: Install the cap at the top: Fish the strut back in: While lifting the strut with one hand, install the 3 bolts at the top.

Align the strut with the sway bar link: Install the nut and tighten the sway bar link to 47 ft-lb using a wrench as a counter-hold: Install the wheel and hand tighten the bolts. Remove the strtus stand, lower the car feont torque the wheel bolts to 80 ft-lb. Written by : Gerry Tseng. Previous Comments.

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Start by replacing one side first: Engage the emergency hand brake, safely jack up one of the front wheels and use a jack stand to secure the lift: Remove the wheel using a 17mm deep socket and an impact wrench. Disconnect the sway bar link from the strut using an 18mm socket and a wrench to counter-hold the shaft. Feb 01,  · Welcome to the Channel! In today's episode I replace the front struts, strut mounts and end links on my sister in law's FWD Saab This procedure is. 4) Remove the front wheel nuts and wheel and place the wheel underneath the front of the car so that you can rest the brake caliper on it later. 5) Using the ratchet and an 18mm socket remove the nut securing the steering track rod end the the strut. Keep the nut in a safe place.

At first I thought it was scraping underneath somewhere or if something needed to be lubed but then checked the car and researched that worn sway bar bushings are often the culprit. This Saab Arc has over k miles on the original bushings so this was likely the problem and I dealt with it until it started to become more embarassing and annoying. Head over to your parked car, ensure the handbrake is engaged and apply wheel chocks to the rear wheels as an added safety measure. Mine creaked real bad!

If it was fine it would have been hard to move as the bushings were intended to lock down movement. Remove the forward bolt on the engine side. The picture shows the front bolt but not the rear bolt:. Loosen but do not remove the rear bolt on the firewall side.

Loosen it so that you have enough slack for reassembly later. Remove the sway bushing bracket and pry off the worn bushing. This is what you can expect:. Compare old left versus new right bushings. The old bushing's inside diameter were much larger than the new ones so these definitely needed to be replaced. Installation is essentially the reverse of removal. It will be a harder to fit the new bushings on so take your time to get it into position and get the bushing bracket slipped onto the rear bolt.

The front bolts will be a pain as the threads may not catch easily: using a pry bar helped to compress the bracket and adding pressure to the bolts helped catch the threads. Torque down the link nuts to 47 ft-lb. Raise the car using a floor jack to remove the jack stands and position car ramps under each wheel. Lower the car so the wheels are now on car ramps and torque the wheel bolts to 80 ft-lbs. Grab the same tools you used to remove the sway bar bushing bracket bolts see pic of tools above and squirm your way back underneath the car to tighten all 4 bolts.

Take your time and get into a comfortable position with your light angled in there. After attempting to nudge the bushing inward and retightening the bolts this was as good as it was going to get. I was ok with this and figured the bushing may work itself in better after driving several miles. For kicks, you can try to see if you can fit a torque wrench onto the sway bar end link nuts behind each wheel. If you can, then you can choose to loosen and re-torque them down while the car is under load.

He has over 9 years of experience working on a wide array of import makes, but has found his home with European cars. With a BMW and Volvo at home, the garage is always busy. The front sway bar bushings are located between the firewall and the engine. Loosen but do not remove the front wheel bolts. An impact wrench will speed this up! The picture shows the front bolt but not the rear bolt: Loosen but do not remove the rear bolt on the firewall side.

This is what you can expect: Compare old left versus new right bushings. Reinstall the wheels and hand tighten the wheel bolts. Remove your tools, remove the wheel chocks from the rear wheels and drive off the car ramps. Test drive the car and enjoy years of restored sway bar bushing performance!

Written by : Alex Fiehl. Previous Comments.